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4 Top Dermatologists Share the Benefits of Red Light Therapy for Your Skin

Here's what you need to know about this growing skin care trend.

By Danine Alati Plus Icon

Danine Alati

Recent Articles by Danine Alati

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January 19, 2024, 2:21pm

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woman using a red light therapy tool for skin benefits

Courtesy of Therabody

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Is it possible that there’s a treatment that aids in improving acne, inflammation, aging skin, and sore joints in one fell swoop? Perhaps you’ve heard that these are some red light therapy benefits. But the question is whether these claims can be substantiated with research and proven successes, or are merely anecdotal. While miracles are highly unlikely, can it be that red light therapy does indeed have positive health results? That’s the crux of what we’re addressing here with input from several board certified dermatologists. But first, what exactly is this skin care technology?

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“Red light therapy is a low-level laser light therapy that exposes the skin to low wavelengths of light in order to address a number of skin concerns,” explains board-certified, New York City dermatologist Dr. Dendy Engelman. “The light causes cells to work more efficiently and regenerate and repair damage, without pain or downtime.”

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Also known as low-level laser therapy, low-power laser therapy, cold laser therapy, or photobiomodulation, red light therapy stimulates tissues through deep skin penetration (one to two millimeters deep), as red light boasts longer wavelengths than other colors in the visible spectrum. “Red wavelengths are very useful light sources for many medical and skin applications due to the penetration depth,” explains Dr. Macrene Alexiades, founder of MACRENE actives and associate clinical professor at Yale University School of Medicine. “They have been associated with benefits in wound healing, acne treatment, hair growth, and skin and tissue rejuvenation.”

Some are so taken with red light therapy that they use at-home devices, like various LED red light therapy masks or the handheld Theraface Pro device. And while celebrities from the Kardashians to Chrissy Teigen and Jessica Alba to Susan Sarandon have posted pics trying the treatment, the verdict is still out on red light therapy’s effectiveness since regular, religious use is imperative. Experts advise in-office professional treatments coupled with at-home upkeep to achieve the best results.

What else do the pros recommend in terms of red light therapy? Here, four dermatologists help decode the benefits of incorporating red light therapy into your self-care regimen.

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What Is Red Light Therapy and What Does it Do?

“Red light therapy involves exposing skin to specific wavelengths of red light — between 630 to 670 nanometers (nm) — and near-infrared light (between 810 to 850 nm), which act on the mitochondria, energizing cells and allowing them to function more efficiently,” explains double board-certified facial plastic surgeon Dr. Jennifer Levine.

Cells’ energy is created in the mitochondria, and red light exposure may produce a positive biochemical effect that strengthens the mitochondria, allowing cells to function more efficiently and rejuvenate and repair themselves. The results of this could range from faster wound healing to improvement in the look of scars, acne, wrinkles, and sun damage. The key to reaping the benefits of red light therapy is repeated exposure to low levels of red and near-infrared light for an extended period of time.

The history of red light therapy dates back more than a century. Although Danish physician Niels Ryberg Finsen received a Nobel Prize in 1903 for discovering that exposure to concentrated red light accelerated the healing of sores, it took decades for this type of treatment to be studied and developed. In the 1960s, Hungarian physician Endre Mester experimented with red lasers to successfully stimulate hair growth and wound healing on rats. Then, essentially by accident, NASA helped to legitimize light therapy as a medical treatment in the late 20th century. Used to grow plants and vegetation in space, red light therapy had a side effect of also quickly healing cuts and abrasions on the hands of NASA scientists who worked with the light.

New York-based board-certified dermatologist Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank says he mainly uses red light therapy for anti-inflammatory treatment, though he acknowledges it can be effective for wound healing, acne, and other symptoms of skin inflammation. “Most commonly we use it in office for people post-treatment, like laser resurfacing or people who are undergoing acne treatments and may be sensitive to other topical agents and things of that kind,” explains Dr. Frank.

Dr. Alexiades is in the process of writing a textbook about photodynamic therapy, and through her research, she has found “red light therapy is reported to enhance blood circulation in the skin through angiogenesis.” She notes, “Improved blood flow can bring more oxygen and nutrients to the skin cells, promoting overall skin health and aiding in the repair of damaged tissues.” Dr. Alexiades also explains that red light therapy is reported to stimulate fibroblasts, the cells that synthesize collagen. “By promoting collagen synthesis, red light therapy may help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,” she adds.

Red Light Therapy Benefits

“Studies have shown that red light therapy can reduce inflammation and increase blood circulation, leading to pain relief, and can alleviate chronic pain in conditions such as fibromyalgia and arthritis,” explains Dr. Levine. Due to its ability to reduce inflammation, red light therapy is effective to treat a range of conditions that are caused by inflammation in the body. And by increasing blood circulation, red light therapy helps promote cell turnover for smoother, more even-toned skin.

Depending on the purpose of red light therapy treatment, some mild results can be seen almost immediately, with continued improvement seen in weeks or months (eight to 12 weeks) following treatment.

Red Light Therapy at Home

Successful red light therapy treatment hinges on consistent use. And at $150 to $300 per in-office treatment with a dermatologist or esthetician, red light therapy can add up to be a costly expense. Instead, some opt for at-home devices for red light therapy upkeep, first getting treated in a professional setting and then maintaining results with at-home devices.

Dr. Levine acknowledges that there are effective at-home red light therapy products, but says it’s important to select a device that you’d be inclined to use consistently in order to achieve desired results. She suggests starting a treatment in a professional setting to ensure that an effective device is being used that’s specifically customized to your individual goals. For example, she says, “if a patient’s goal is to reduce dark spots, then the provider may use a combination of treatments that will produce results faster than red light therapy alone.” However, she adds, “Because red light therapy treatment should be done regularly and consistently to achieve results, at-home red light therapy may be more convenient.”

Dr. Engelman offers a similar opinion regarding at-home versus pro red light therapy treatments. “For those looking to get the full benefit from red light therapy, I recommend considering a clinical setting with in-office medical-grade devices,” she says. “In a professional setting, LED therapy is often coupled with other skin procedures as an add-on to facials, peels, or microneedling. Typically the skin care professional will use a combination of different types of light for maximum benefits over the course of about 20 minutes.”

But she also thinks there are worthy at-home red light therapy options that are safe and easy-to-use. “Some of these treatments do not yield the same results as in-office devices, but are great for consistent use that gradually improves the skin’s texture, tone, and quality,” Dr. Engelman says, cautioning, “As always, research your at-home red light therapy device, be mindful of your usage, and read the instructions.”

But Dr. Frank is not totally convinced at-home red light therapy treatments are effective. “In terms of the at-home therapies, I find they are of limited use unless people use them very regularly,” he stresses. “I tell people: Try it, and if you find that it helps and it serves you, like any skin care treatment, you can continue it.”

As an entry point into at-home red light therapy treatment, consider a device that’s a bit more budget-friendly before committing to a more expensive purchase. Luckily, there are several convenient devices, including LED face masks and portable handheld facial tools that deliver red light therapy at home.

Red Light Therapy Benefits for Skin, Reviewed by Dermatologists

Therabody Theraface Pro

$399

Buy Now at Amazon

$399

Buy Now at nordstrom

The Theraface Pro offers red light therapy along with facial massage and microcurrent treatment options. The LED ring encircles the device’s entire head, so you can cover a lot of facial real estate fast, and you can choose your LED light therapy color — red, blue, and red + Infrared light — to reduce wrinkles around the eye, banish acne and blemishes, or a provide warming sensation to temporarily reduce irritation and discomfort.

Price upon publish date of this article: $399

Red Light Therapy Benefits for Skin, Reviewed by Dermatologists

HigherDose Red Light Neck Enhancer

$349

Buy Now at nordstrom

$349

Buy Now at higherdose

HigherDose creates buzzy wellness devices like top-of-the-line infrared sauna blankets, and the brand recently expanded its red light therapy offerings to include this décolleté-focused mask. The tool wraps around the neck and covers the chest area, delivering red and near infrared light to help boost collagen and soften fine lines.

Price upon publish date of this article: $349

Red Light Therapy Benefits for Skin, Reviewed by Dermatologists

Current Body Skin LED Light Therapy Mask

$380

Buy Now at currentbody

“I love the CurrentBody LED Light Therapy Face Mask because it is powered by red and near-infrared light,” says Dr. Engelman. “It is lightweight and convenient and works by accelerating collagen production and increasing blood circulation. It reduces inflammation and signs of aging overtime on your own time in your own home,” she explains. “Using the device for a minimum of 10 minutes three to five times per week helps minimize inflammation, improve skin tone and texture, and repair skin damage.”

Price upon publish date of this article: $380

Red Light Therapy Benefits for Skin, Reviewed by Dermatologists

Hooga Full Body Red Light Therapy Device

$1,200

Buy Now at amazon

For red light therapy lovers, a full body panel is an efficient way to reap the technology’s benefits from head-to-toe. This splurge-worthy oversized panel is great for treating wrinkles, discoloration, uneven texture, and acne on the neck, chest, hands and back.

Price upon publish date of this article: $1,200

Red Light Therapy Benefits for Skin, Reviewed by Dermatologists

Dp Dermaceuticals LED Face Mask

$395

Buy Now at DP Derm

Dr. Levine cites Dp Dermaceuticals Red Light Therapy LED masks as a viable option to help potentially reduce fine lines and wrinkles, age spots, sun damage, and pigmentation while improving skin texture.

Price upon publish date of this article: $395

Red Light Therapy Pros and Cons

While it’s not accurate to hail red light therapy as the magic cure-all, based on substantial research, red light therapy has some benefits as a non-invasive treatment for conditions that have to do with inflammation. And red light therapy treatment has shown to have few side effects, so dermatologists consider it to be a relatively safe treatment for a range of skin issues. Calling red light therapy a “low-risk” procedure, Dr. Frank advises, “The best way to decipher benefits versus myths is to try it for yourself. While it may not be a miracle worker or assist in weight loss, it can be a great addition to treating the skin for its anti-inflammatory benefits.”

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Meet the Experts

dermatologist expert headshot

Dr. Dendy Engelman, MD, FACMS, FAAD, is a board-certified, award-winning, New York City dermatologist, Mohs surgeon, and media expert who specializes in medical and cosmetic dermatology at Shafer Clinic Fifth Avenue. She is a fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology, American Society of Dermatologic Surgery and American College of Mohs Surgery.

dermatologist expert headshot

Dr. Macrene Alexiades, MD, Ph.D., FAAD, is a double board-certified dermatologist in the EU and the U.S., and is certified to practice medicine, surgery, and dermatology. She holds three degrees from Harvard University: a BA from Harvard University, MD from Harvard Medical School, and a PhD in Genetics from Harvard University. She was also a Fulbright Scholar with a research award year in Europe and has been named as a Castle Connolly Top Doctor since 2014. Today, she provides editorial expertise to multiple medical journals, and she delivers expert patient care at her bustling, high-profile New York City dermatology practice.

dermatologist expert headshot

Courtesy

Dr. Jennifer Levine, MD, is an award-winning, double board-certified facial plastic surgeon, world-renowned beauty expert, and steadfast innovator. She has always had a profound appreciation for beauty, precision, and mathematics, solidifying her career in aesthetic medicine. In addition to running her private practice, Dr. Levine is an attending plastic surgeon at Manhattan Eye, Ear, and Throat Hospital and Lenox Hill Hospital.

dermatologist expert headshot

Courtesy

Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and dermatologic surgeon, skincare consultant, and founder of the bespoke aesthetic healthcare brand PFRANKMD. In over 20 years of private practice, he has become a world-renowned expert in minimally invasive cosmetic surgery. He is also a clinical assistant professor of dermatology at The Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai Hospital.

Meet the Author

Danine Alati is a WWD contributor who boasts over two decades of experience covering the beauty, wellness, and interior design verticals. Alati also specializes in writing luxury lifestyle and home improvement pieces, and has penned stories for InStyle, Architectural Digest, DuJour, Galerie, Brides, Hamptons, Art Basel, and Worth magazines, and many other outlets. Alati interviewed four leading dermatologists and conducted extensive research to write this article on the benefits of red light therapy.

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